AUCKLAND, 6 May 2024
History is a funny thing. Especially in a country that has married its native and immigrant/colonial culture as well as Aotearoa New Zealand has (at least in contemporary terms). I mean, even the fact the country has changed its name is a testament to that. “New Zealand” is very much NOT the right term anymore.
After dropping our bags at our new tour hotel, with little love left for our initial hotel after the night before, we went to try and grab some food at a place we’d had our eyes on, but it was shut on Mondays. So, ever the optimists we locked onto a little place 20 minutes walk away!
Then…
Eventually, we made it and caught breakfast in Central Auckland at a café called Scarecrow.
This is very quickly becoming a food blog! The food is just hit after hit after hit. The staff were beautiful and as an absolute caffeine fiend (read: addict), I had what might be the smoothest flat white known to humanity. The manager was lovely and allowed to grab some great photos in the kitchen, as the vibe of the whole place was amazing. Another firm recommendation.
Side note on photos: Most of my photos are on my DSLR and will be added after the fact when there’s time. Colouring and toning them takes time and a laptop. So, bear with. That said, my phone camera is kickass…so there’s that.
We had until 5.30 to wander Auckland and wanting to take in the history and culture of this amazing country we headed to the Auckland War Memorial Museum. There are very few photos from here as most of my time was spent looking at gorgeous Māori architecture, artefacts, and pieces of art that weaved such beautiful stories together.
One highlight was seeing Tē Ra , The Great Sail, a hugely important piece of Māori culture that is intrinsic to their bridging between history and modernity. I got to see the original sail AND the beautiful recreation that was a weave-for-weave NEW one.
“But Jake!” You cry. “Why would they need a copy?“
…that was the only time my heart sank. Below the plaque for Tē Ra, in tiny letters, read:
“Loaned by the British Museum”
This sail is vital to Māori culture…the British Museum has no record as to who stole it and how and it has been displayed all of 3 times in the last 120 years. The Māori people working on reclaiming it via recreating it had to even make several applications to them just to see it. Their own heritage.
As an Englishman, I hate the legacy of the British Museum. The level of global theft that has been carried out by them is awful. Not mentioning their ongoing insistence that these things shouldn’t be returned to their home countries to be housed there. It makes me ashamed to be linked with it, even tentatively.
Tē Ra belongs in Aotearoa, where it belongs and can be respected, not sit in a basement scrunched up (which is how BM have treated it)
But, nevertheless, the museum and its works was stunning.
Then…it was time to begin the Adventure.
We raced back in the scorching sun via train and bus and made it to the hotel with all of 7 minutes to spare. Enough to grab a drink, drop off our bags and go to the bathroom (though maybe not in that order).
Everyone is LOVELY!
It’s always that worry when you join a tour like this one that you will be the “odd one out” or that certain people won’t like you (not that that’s ever on you). Not so here, we met our tour guides Julie and Josh, along with the Red Carpet office team, Sasha and Melissa (both Julie’s daughters and Melissa is Josh’s wife! They’re also imminenetly expecting!) and after a brief chat and some little gift therapy, we ate!
I felt so looked after. I had a special meal and dessert ordered uniquely for me. A gorgeous green risotto followed by coconut ice-cream with fresh made caramel. The dream. This was surrounded by meeting and laughing the night away with Melissa and Josh, and our fellow…ships? McKenzie and Joseph, siblings from Alabama, and Emily and Joshua, newlyweds from Michigan! We all got on and laughed as we swapped stories on Tolkien, our jobs and just the general awe of this thing.
Now I’m sat here about to sleep…knowing what I get to cover next.
You’ll like it.
Well?
Are you coming?
– Jake
7 May 2024
P.S. Jon is also writing about his version of events over on his Tumblr page, Misplaced Midlanders! Check it out!
The Long Expected Journey 